We got a solid 4-5 foot swell to come in, although the direction was not perfect for all the spots we scored some AMAZING waves. I have never surfed right that was so hollow and so perfect, on top of this the waves go forever, I caught a wave yesterday that went from snapper rocks all the way to the inside of Greenmount (basically I surfed 3 surf spots in one wave), the wave must have been well over a minute long. The inside part of Greenmount has an insane barrel and this is where i have been surfing the most. The wave breaks in about 2 feet of water and just peels perfectly across a sandbar.
The antibiotics for the spider bite have started to push the swelling down, but the pain kept getting worse, so I went to the doctor and he told me that I have tendenitus and that I wont be able to surf for the next 2 weeks... we will see about that.
the car looks great! careful driving on the wrong side of the road! we love you so much, pray for your daily and miss you every minute!
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